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A Tubbi Tuning Tip

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A Tubbi Tuning Tip

Post by PLOW tubbi on Fri 7 Jun 2013 - 10:58

1, always take your time when tuning for the best results, a crammed together tune in one evening will not be as good as expected.
I always build the car and tune it heavily for an evening, then come back to it at a later date for some fine tuning or in the worst case a complete rebuild and tune ( this has happened a few times).

As your tuning skills get better the tuning time will come down, but the best tunes....you know....the cars you love to drive because they handle just the way you like it, they take the most amount of time unless you strike lucky earlier.

Another way of getting a good tune is to team build, this is very affective and with a good team with you the amount of time you yourself put in can be massively reduced.

Regardless of tuning and painting etc, in my opinion the best racing is when the playing field is level, the cars are very similar in performance and the racing is extremely close, at that point winning doesnt matter, just the taking part.


Last edited by PLOW tubbi on Sun 9 Jun 2013 - 9:57; edited 1 time in total

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Re: A Tubbi Tuning Tip

Post by PLOW tubbi on Fri 7 Jun 2013 - 11:00

Fwd:

the diff is all important here, drive out of the corner can be the making of an overtake.
try lots of settings and listen for tyre squeel.

Getting the car to turn in and be steady through the corner can lead to a good lap time, try a bit of positive alignment on the rear to bring the back end round a bit coupled with a tiny bit of positive on the front, the car will nicely drift a little through the corner under control making a mid corner correction easier. essential during a race.


Last edited by PLOW tubbi on Fri 7 Jun 2013 - 23:02; edited 1 time in total

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Re: A Tubbi Tuning Tip

Post by PLOW tubbi on Fri 7 Jun 2013 - 11:14

Car Builds:

Nearly every track on Forza 4 is best negotiated by a handling car, the days of Forza 2 gunning it in a muscle car do not seem to work in competitions or public lobbies.

With this in mind all effort needs to be put into making the car as light as possible as this promotes better braking, handling in general and acceleration.

But again 'just enough' is the order of the day, having a car that corners like a skateboard on Sebring is just pointless.

Some items I never use unless it is absolutely necessary:

Any kind of clutches, roll cages, rim size height adjustment (although putting low profile rims on the rear of a fwd can settle the car nicely), no race gear boxes, only sport if needed, intercoolers etc, race cams unless needed (although most Honda's go like the clappers with a race cam in but the tyre breakaway is horrendous).

To clear a few things up here is a list of grip tracks Etc:

Grip Tracks:

Maple Valley
Mugello
Tsukuba
Catalunya
Bernese Alps
Camino Veijo
Fujimi Kaido
Iberian
Infineon
Ladera
Rally de Positano
Sedona
Suzuka


Then come the gun it with lots of horse power and very little cornering ability, sort of 'Nurse' it round the corners.

Power Tracks:

Road America
Road Atlanta
Sebring
Nurburg Nordschleif
Le Mans
Twin Ring Motegi
Top Gear Track

There are of course some mid range tracks which will accomodate both power and handling cars as long as they are not too extreme.

Mid Power Tracks:

Silverstone
Hockenheim
Indionapolis


Hope this helps with your build.


Last edited by PLOW tubbi on Fri 7 Jun 2013 - 23:25; edited 2 times in total

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Re: A Tubbi Tuning Tip

Post by PLOW tubbi on Fri 7 Jun 2013 - 11:14

Rwd Diff:

I usually start with a setting of 62 on the accel and go upwards from there, to calculate the decel I use this as a good start:

If the car is front engined use half the figure of the accel.
If the car is mid engined use a third of the accel figure.


Last edited by PLOW tubbi on Fri 7 Jun 2013 - 23:04; edited 1 time in total

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Re: A Tubbi Tuning Tip

Post by PLOW tubbi on Fri 7 Jun 2013 - 11:19

Aero:

the knack is having just enough to get the job done.

putting too much on can make the car misbehave, I find having less on the rear of a fwd to be an advantage, let the mechanical part of the car do the work, forced traction visa aero can restrict the car on the straights.

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Re: A Tubbi Tuning Tip

Post by PLOW tubbi on Fri 7 Jun 2013 - 11:22

Braking:

race brakes are usually order of the day, if you have trouble with braking or locking up try adjusting the brake pressure mid test downwards until the tyres only just do not lock up, balancing the front and the rear is very useful, adjust until the front and rear lock at the same time (looking sideways at the car whilst braking can help with this).

Braking later means winning a corner, the only problem with this set up is different tracks have different grip levels and braking pressure will need adjusting to suit the track.

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Re: A Tubbi Tuning Tip

Post by PLOW tubbi on Fri 7 Jun 2013 - 11:33

Suspension:

Different for every car, but one universal rule, take the bump stiffness to zero, any bottoming out is better solved by stiffening the springs.

The higher the springs, the better the acceleration and braking but at the cost of cornering ability.
Do not be tempted to lower the car too far, just makes the car skippy and a handful on the kerbs.

Having the suspension higher than you might think makes the car slower to respond but if you adjust your driving style to suit better lap times can be achieved.

The rebound can be a confusing beast, start with the settings really low and take it over some kerbs then stiffen it up until the car responds to the kerb, softer settings helps stop the car from jittering on bumpy tracks.

Anti roll bars can be used for the best advantage in a fwd car, lower seeing on the front and higher on the rear will aglow more pressure on the outside turning in tyre, too much and it will over load the tyre and you will see understeer and only one tyre mark on a replay.

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Re: A Tubbi Tuning Tip

Post by PLOW tubbi on Fri 7 Jun 2013 - 23:26

Updated

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Re: A Tubbi Tuning Tip

Post by GLR Redneck on Sun 9 Jun 2013 - 4:59

Thanks for sharing your knowledge tubbi.

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Re: A Tubbi Tuning Tip

Post by ProfMadFatStaxx on Sun 9 Jun 2013 - 5:49

agreed. very sound advice. one point tho, take baby steps when tuning and TAKE YOUR TIME. sometimes a 20 or 30 minute tuning session will allow you to tune for distance and pit stops.

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Re: A Tubbi Tuning Tip

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